Pit Bike Club

harjun · 10-03-2010, 05:45 PM

Hello chaps would just like to ask a few questions if that's alrigt.
Firstly would my yx140 generate enough electricity to power 4 LED indicators, an LED brake light and a powerful front light?
Do the indicators automatically flash when there is current flowing throughthem or do they need some sort of flashed unit?
Can I just buy any 5 pin stator and will it fit straight onto my current flywheel?
Please can you recommend a 5 wire stator that will fit my flywheel and generate lots of electricity

Also where can i get a brake light which can be switched on as a light, and go brigther for when i press the brakes?
And how can i get the brake lights to activate when i press the front brakes.

thanks so much
harjun.

Jay762 · 10-03-2010, 06:35 PM

You will need a flasher unit -

I will have to defer to others superior knowledge specific to your bike for the rest

dervdub · 11-03-2010, 11:26 AM

Really you want to go with a full DC generator system as the standard 5 coil stator and reg/rec is only half wave rectified.

In english that means the cheaper ones don't make smooth DC and you can get problems with LED lights.

A full DC system from OOracing will generate smooth DC, they are £50 I think for a 5/6 coil stator and the proper regulator rectifier, I run one on my monkey so I can have HID headlights - works lovely

harjun · 13-03-2010, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dervdub

Really you want to go with a full DC generator system as the standard 5 coil stator and reg/rec is only half wave rectified.

In english that means the cheaper ones don't make smooth DC and you can get problems with LED lights.

A full DC system from OOracing will generate smooth DC, they are £50 I think for a 5/6 coil stator and the proper regulator rectifier, I run one on my monkey so I can have HID headlights - works lovely

thanks
are these the ones i should be looking at: http://www.ooracing.com/store/index....productId=1186
Also will that mean i have to get special DC lights? or will any indicators and headlights work? because all the lights seem to be AC
And will the stator power indicators and horns and a headlight?

Thanks.

dervdub · 13-03-2010, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harjun

thanks
are these the ones i should be looking at: http://www.ooracing.com/store/index....productId=1186
Also will that mean i have to get special DC lights? or will any indicators and headlights work? because all the lights seem to be AC
And will the stator power indicators and horns and a headlight?

Thanks.

That's the kiddy.

Light bulbs (with a filament, NOT leds) will work on AC or DC, they don't care.

LED's and Horns only work with DC, a crackly horn means you've got a rough DC supply (half wave rectified), with a full DC kit like the one in the link the horn will work properly.

Basically you fit that generator kit and it converts the bike to full DC, with a battery and correct wiring the lights will work with the engine not running but the key on.

Hope that helps

harjun · 13-03-2010, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dervdub

That's the kiddy.

Light bulbs (with a filament, NOT leds) will work on AC or DC, they don't care.

LED's and Horns only work with DC, a crackly horn means you've got a rough DC supply (half wave rectified), with a full DC kit like the one in the link the horn will work properly.

Basically you fit that generator kit and it converts the bike to full DC, with a battery and correct wiring the lights will work with the engine not running but the key on.

Hope that helps

cheers mate your really helpful.
So will i HAVE to have a battery on the bike? or will the DC conversion and all the lights etc. work without a battery and just run straight from the stator?
Also, with the flasher unit, would i put that inbetween power input for indicator switch, and the indicator switch, or does each indicator side need a flasher unit. like one flasher unit for left side and one for right side?
Cheers, also is it hard to do this whole project of lights with a battery? Is it worth it really?

dervdub · 13-03-2010, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harjun

cheers mate your really helpful.
So will i HAVE to have a battery on the bike? or will the DC conversion and all the lights etc. work without a battery and just run straight from the stator?
Also, with the flasher unit, would i put that inbetween power input for indicator switch, and the indicator switch, or does each indicator side need a flasher unit. like one flasher unit for left side and one for right side?
Cheers, also is it hard to do this whole project of lights with a battery? Is it worth it really?

You don't have to have a battery, you will need something to take the output of the regulator/rectifier though - you can use a battery eliminator, but they cost more than a decent battery would.

With an indicator relay, you wire it so it's between the 12v+ and the supply to the indicator switch so the indicator switch selects either left or right indicators to flash - as the supply to the switch is through the flasher relay the output (either left/right) will flash too.

It's not hard to do, the worst part is getting the flywheel off, but if you use the right tool it's easy.

Is it worth it - I would say yes, for a road bike, for just mucking about off roading at night probably not.

With a full DC setup and a battery you won't get dim lights when the engine is idling, croaky horn etc. Plus LED lamps much prefer a good smooth DC power supply.

harjun · 15-03-2010, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dervdub

You don't have to have a battery, you will need something to take the output of the regulator/rectifier though - you can use a battery eliminator, but they cost more than a decent battery would.

With an indicator relay, you wire it so it's between the 12v+ and the supply to the indicator switch so the indicator switch selects either left or right indicators to flash - as the supply to the switch is through the flasher relay the output (either left/right) will flash too.

It's not hard to do, the worst part is getting the flywheel off, but if you use the right tool it's easy.

Is it worth it - I would say yes, for a road bike, for just mucking about off roading at night probably not.

With a full DC setup and a battery you won't get dim lights when the engine is idling, croaky horn etc. Plus LED lamps much prefer a good smooth DC power supply.

oh right, i actually have to have some sort of 12V thing, can't i run the lights straight of the dc setup or put in a regulator or something because i don't think there are many places to mount the battery on the pit bike

dervdub · 15-03-2010, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harjun

oh right, i actually have to have some sort of 12V thing, can't i run the lights straight of the dc setup or put in a regulator or something because i don't think there are many places to mount the battery on the pit bike

You need a battery (or battery eliminator) so the regulator/rectifier has something to work against, without either of these you'll fry the reg/rec you've just spent all your cash on.

There are loads of places to mount a battery, it doesn't have to be huge - something like a 2.3ah GEL battery is very small, about the size of 2 cigarette packets.

I've put a 7ah battery, 2 HID ballast box's, 2 trigger relays, 3 way fuse box and the reg/rec on my monkey bike just behind the engine, the only time you see any of it is if you look up from the back wheel into the frame - you just need to get creative