stomp owners manual - NOW ONLINE

[stompracing]

download from here:

http://www.ridestomp.com/assets/owners_manual.pdf

Hopefully you will find it useful

[pezzah1]

the link aint workin mate

[teapot]

sweet now we dont have to get ripped off by the people expecting money for this info on ebay

[pezzah1]

Originally Posted by chris138

sweet now we dont have to get ripped off by the people expecting money for this info on ebay

did it work 4 u?

[gaz56]

Link works for me!
Cheers Stomp

[pezzah1]

nah not workin for me cant even get it off there site fukin ****e internet ive got

[WPB Pitbikes]

If you don't have a PDF viewer heres a basic version from

welshpitbikes.co.uk

Version 1.0 - October 2009 Prepared by Stomp 2009

Introduction
Look at you all chuffed to bits!.. & so you should be! You have chosen wisely my young Jedi, the Pit Bike you have bought is a Stomp!! In our
opinion, the best Pit Bike available in the world. Did you know that we put every conceivable effort into design, sourcing & specification in order
that you will enjoy your pit bike for many ‘races with your mates’ to come? Well we do & now you are the lucky owner of one. Before you chuck
on your lid & go razzing off somewhere you shouldn’t, please take a little time to read through your manual & get to grips with your new bike.
There are plenty of tips in this manual to help you get the best out of your bike. For example, do you know how to tension your chain? Because
after about 1 hours riding, it’s going to stretch as it beds in & you will need to adjust it. What about tyre pressures, do you know what they
should be? The wrong tyre pressure & before you know it, you have a puncture...I bet you didn’t know that did you & you were about to go off
out somewhere & learn the hard way? time to start reading:
Pit Bike Definition?
An open cradle frame, a horizontal engine, wheel size no greater than 14/12 inches
Pit Bike Origin?
Compact transport for getting around at race meetings and impressing girls
Stomp?
Formed in 2004 by Mr Stomp in his garage at home with just a few tools & some scrap scooters, Stomp is now a global brand
Your new Bike
Needs a thorough checking over (should have been done by your dealer, but it’s your responsibility to make sure it was done & that you
maintain it to the standard outlined in this manual). Your bike also needs to be run in for 2 hours & then serviced (see the service schedule in
the back)
What is my bike capable of?
Unless stated otherwise on the stomp website in writing, your bike is designed for field or trail use (it’s a fun bike, not a competition machine).
Your bike is not sold for use on motocross mini bike or bmx tracks or for racing. Your bike has not been designed for jumping. Failure to
adhere to these guidelines may result in component failure and possible injury. If you want to use your bike at a track or for jumping, please
speak to your Stomp dealer who will recommend the appropriate upgrades (usually simply handlebars & shock upgrades)
If you choose to ignore these guidelines, you do so at your own risk
Where can I ride it?
Unless you have modified your bike for use on the road, you have the appropriate documentation to support the conversion, tax & insurance you
must NOT take your bike anywhere near a public highway (road), this includes the pavement or the grass verges by the road. You cannot even
push your bike along a public highway or pavement, this is illegal & you may be subject to points on your licence, a fine and or your bike being
confiscated (UK – for other countries please consult your local law)
The only place you can legally ride your pit bike is where the land is privately owned & the owner has given you permission to ride there

[WPB Pitbikes]

Notes on Safety
Clothing
Pit biking carries risk of injury by it’s very nature as with any extreme sport. Please ensure you are adequately protected when riding:
Always wear a Gold ACU approved helmet (UK) or other officially recognised motor sport approved helmet
Always wear suitable motocross or minibike protective gloves & boots & goggles (where applicable)
Always wear body armour e.g. chest/back/shoulders/elbows/knees/thighs
Do not ride beyond your limits
All media recorded by Stomp & used for marketing purposes has been carried out under controlled conditions by professional riders with the
appropriate level of support and back-up. Do not attempt to copy any of Stomp’s media unless you are qualified and capable to do so.
Risk of FIRE
When Refuelling, always switch off your engine, do not smoke & keep petrol away from other sources of ignition. Be aware that fuel could
potentially be ignited by a red hot exhaust system

If you drop, crash or lay your bike on it’s side,

ALWAYS check your air filter is not soaked in petrol before you re-start your engine.

Poorly adjusted float height or being laid on it’s side

can cause fuel to leak from the carb & there is the potential that a spark from you engine or

other source could start a fire.

Version 1.0 - October 2009 Prepared by Stomp 2009

Your Bike

How do I make it work?

In this section we outline the important features of your bike to help you get your head around it. Please make sure you read it thoroughly in

order to get the most out of your bike. You can use section appendix A, to reference the key features of your bike via photo, to help with this

section.

Fuel Tap

Located to the left hand side of your tank, the majority of Stomp fuel taps are 3 position. The middle setting in ‘off’ i.e. no fuel, turn the tap down

for ‘main tank’ when this runs out, turn the tap all the way up for ‘reserve tank’. Once you have switched to reserve tank, I tis advisable you get

back to your fuel source & re-fill your fuel tank. Note, some taps only have on & off settings.

Kill Switch – enables or kills the ignition (like the key in a car but without the whirring noise)

Located on the handle bars by you left hand. Switch to run before you try & start the engine. Switch again to kill when you want to stop the

engine

Kick Start – starts the engine

Foot operated lever by you right leg/foot. Kick down on this to spin the engine over & start it. On engines 140 & above you should always turn

the engine over until you feel the kick start become VERY stiff. This is called TDC or top dead centre. Once you feel this point you are ready to

kick down hard (once). DO NOT stab away at your kick start like a crazed buffoon. This will result in severe kick back which will a) hurt your

foot or leg & b) damage the gears in your kick start mechanism or worse, in severe cases you may damage the output shaft bearing of crack

your engine cases. This can be a VERY expensive lesson to learn, so treat your kickstart with love & respect – peace.

Throttle – makes it go

Twisty thing on the right hand side of the handle bars. It’s purpose is to open the slide in the carb which lets air in & fuel mix producing a

combustible gas. You should have minimum free play in your throttle cable, you need to keep your cable lubricated & your throttle should return

fully closed when you release it. A sticking throttle often results in a bad crash

Front Brake Lever – makes it stop

Located just in front of the throttle. When you pull it, it forces hydraulic fluid down the pipe which acts at the calliper to force your brake pads to

grip your front brake disk. The resulting friction slows you down. The lever should be firm & not too spongy; if it’s spongy you make have a

leak, air in your brake line or a damaged component. Faulty brakes often result in a bad crash

Rear Brake Lever – for skidding

Located just in front of your right foot when sat on the bike, this ‘toe’ operated lever does the same as the front brake, but to the back wheel.

The same rules apply as the front brake lever.

Clutch Lever – to be pulled in when you change gear & let out when you pull away (no applicable to semi auto engines)

Located in front of your left hand, this lever operates the clutch. The clutch is a series of friction plates in a drum which disengages the drive

from the engine to the gearbox & thus the back wheel. You should have minimum free play in your cable (adjust it) & your cable should be kept

lubricated for long life. A snapped clutch cable results in an end to the days riding. On non start in gear manual engines e.g. 110-120 cc, if this

cable is over adjusted, stiff, or the lever through the engine case is dry or sticking, you will not be able to start the engine & it will feel like there is

no compression when you operate the kick start. Adjust it up, lube it up problem solved.

[WPB Pitbikes]

Handlebars – for steering & hanging on

Make sure they are tight & free from damage. Snapped or loose bars often result in a crash & injury. Use them to turn your bike & experiment

with opposite lock once you have the confidence to hang out your tail

Gear Selector – notch it up to go faster, notch it down to go slower

Located in front of your left foot. All stomp gearboxes are ‘all up’. All the way down is neutral, then you lift the lever to go up through the gears

one at a time. If you do not use your clutch you will DRASTICALLY reduce the life of your gearbox.

Suspension adjustments

Rear Shock

Gas

Almost all stomp shocks are nitrogen filled ‘gas shocks’. They have a schrader valve connection to top them up with air (gas) using a high

pressure feed such as a shock pump (100-150PSI). DO NOT touch the schrader valve as the gas will escape instantly & you will no longer have

any rebound damping on your shock.

Pre-load

All stomp’s have adjustable pre-load on the rear shock. This allows you to adjust the static load on the shocks spring for your own body weight /

preference. If you look at the top of the shock you will see 2 large castellated nuts designed to be adjusted with a ‘C’ spanner. The lower nut

adjusts the preload by compressing the spring. The second nut is a locking nut which prevents the main adjusting nut from coming loose. If you

cak end is too soft, tighten the castellated nut a couple of turns, lock with the locking nut & re-test your bike. If you back end is too firm, do the

opposite & re-test your bike.

[WPB Pitbikes]

Rebound (DNM)

If your bike is fitted with a DNM rear shock (or you have upgraded to DNM) you will also have a rebound adjuster. This is normally a small

wheel located at the bottom of the shock with indications for slow of fast. Slow or Fast refer to the speed at which the shock rebounds i.e.

bounces back after compression. How you set this is up to you, but we advise a rebound time (whilst static) of approx 0.8-1.2 seconds for offroad

& 1.5-2 seconds for tarmac. This is achieved by putting your full body weight on the bike, standing up quickly & measuring the time for the

bike to rebound on the rear shock. If you bike is bouncing around at the rear end, or your mates watching can see the rear wheel leaving the

ground over bumpy terrain (either on or off-road) your rebound is likely to be set too fast. Slow is down by adjusting the rebound adjuster in the

direction of of ‘slow’ 2 clicks & then re-test your bike. If your preload feels fine for your body weight i.e. the rear end compresses sufficiently, yet

your bike feels hard on the rear end whilst riding, your rebound maybe too slow & your shock is over compressing due to slow rebound. Speed

it up a couple of clicks & get back out there

Version 1.0 - October 2009 Prepared by Stomp 2009

Compression (DNM)

If your bike is fitted with a DNM rear shock (or you have upgraded to DNM) you may also have a compression adjuster (top end DNM models

only). The compression adjuster (like the rebound adjuster) adjusts the speed of the shock. However, it adjusts the speed at which you can

load the shock. This combined with pre-load adjustment can give you varying degrees of active stiffness adjustment on your rear end. The

compression adjuster is normally found near the top of your shock & works in the same ways as a rebound adjuster though some may be noted

as H & S (hard & soft) rather than S & L (slow & fast)

Forks

Standard forks rarely have any adjustment; however some of the higher models will feature either SP or Marzocchi forks. These both have

adjustable compression & rebound damping on each leg. These work in the same way as the adjustments for the DNM shock, however the

results can also have a significant effect on how fast your bike will turn e.g. slow rebound after heavy braking will make for a sharp headstock

angle & thus faster turn-in. The rebound adjuster is normally found on the top for the forks, the compression adjuster is normally found on the

bottom of the forks (underneath). For bother adjuster turn clockwise to increase compression or rebound damping.

Version 1.0 - October 2009 Prepared by Stomp 2009

Regular service items

Please refer to Appendix A for photographs

Oil

Check your oil level EVERY time you take your bike out. To do this lean your bike against a wall so it is upright, or get a mate to hold it for you

(your bike). Unscrew the dipstick (next to your kick start) wipe it off with a cloth then dip it back in the hole (no need to screw it, just dip it down

till it won’t go any further). The oil level should show on the dipstick in the hatched area at the bottom. Top it up with 10w40 semi synthetic

Putolene Force 4 oil (available from Stomp and all good motocross shops). Depending on your riding conditions you should change your oil

after maximum 10 hours use. The drain plug is the big 17 mm bolt under your engine. There is an access hole to the bolt through your bash

guard