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Old 16-03-2013, 12:17 PM   #1
impact
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Austria
Age: 36
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advanced engine building questions

Hey folks!
Heaven't been here for a while... after getting a ktm 125 sx and destroying my 155ZS' gearbox shortly after that I wasn't riding minibikes for almost two years now.
But now the time has come to bring the stomp KZ and the ZS155 back to life...

So, here are a few questions that are a bit more advanced than the usual stuff asked here I guess...

I got a tbolt bore up kit and akunar cam (7,5mm lift if i'm remembering right) and I want to check valve to Piston clearance.
Theres a brief explanation on tbolts page in the tech section thats pretty straightforward, using oil based clay.
I just wanted to know if anybody has done this before. if there are other techniques and what to pay special attention to.
The 1/8in or 3.175mm minumum clearence mentioned on t bolts page sound a bit much? Is this ment on the outer diameter of the valve or also boltface to valveface? Or is this to compensate for valve float?

Oil spinner...
what are they really good for? Are they just some kind of balancing mass for the crankshaft to compensate the rotors mass?
I'm asking because I had one break, and I would like to eleminate as much sources of error as possible. I wouldn't mind turning some kind of flywheel so both sides of the crank are balanced and using a in line oil filter instead, or even upgrade to the ZS155 V2 case with the internal oilfilter if thats possible.
This also leads me to my next questions, how important is it for the crankshaft that its both sides are balanced and how would a symmetrical mass reduction impact on the engines behaviour?

I heard that its high RPM's what causes these chinese engines to wear out the fastest/cause them to break the most likliest. Thats why I went with a bigbore kit, left the outer rotor and a high lift cam along with a longer tranny to stay more in the lower RPM band.

I was using a 28mm OKO flatside carb on my ZS 155 (ported, akunar valvesprings and soon akunar cam) with 102 or on size larger main if i remember correctly... what main shoul I try first to get me into the ballpark when switching to a 177ccm kit? 110 maybe? Or would I need a larger main at all?
I'm aksing just to save time... the place where I rebuild my bike isn't too convinient for doing lots of full speed plug chop tests...

and the last one... what kind of stator/rotor would I need or would be recommended to run lights without compromising reliability or whatsoever..? And how much power do they produce typically?

thanks in advance

edit: one more I forgot, whats the recommended torque on the cylinder stud nuts?
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Old 17-03-2013, 12:50 PM   #2
andyr
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Re: advanced engine building questions

1. " Is this ment on the outer diameter of the valve or also boltface to valveface? Or is this to compensate for valve float?"
Yes, both !
2."Oil spinner...what are they really good for? "
http://www.saporoshez-968.de/oelschleuder062006.html
3."I was using a 28mm OKO flatside carb....what main should I try first?"
Nice read:http://www.miniriders.com/carby-tuni...latslides.html
I would go 40*pilot , 105*MAIN AND JJH Needle...and use Keihin jets!
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Old 17-03-2013, 06:58 PM   #3
impact
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Re: advanced engine building questions

Alright, thanks.

The second question was ment to be a bit sarcastic... basically I know what they do, I just wondered if a conventional oil filter in the oil cooler circuit would be more failproof.

Thanks for the link and tip, I found it years ago but lost/fogot it somehow...
Yes, I do use genuine keihin jets.
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