Pit Bike Club

cragg · 22-12-2015, 11:14 AM

Hi all.
I'm looking a getting a bike to race with the stock 140 class. I'd quite like a bike that is capable of running at the front, even if I am not, and after looking on various forums/websites I'm leaning towards a MonsterPro M2, as its recommended to be a capable bike out of the box - unless anyone would advise otherwise?!

However my question is..... the regs state that you can use an 'open' exhaust, ignition and carb. Do people tend to upgrade these at all or just leave them as they come?

I also noticed that the championship winning 140 was for sale from last season, which you could buy in two different specs, either with a Scorpian Exhuast Pipe & VM 26 Carb or stock carb and pipe. I guess in a way this answers my above question, to run at the front do you need to be making these upgrades?!

Any advise/experience would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Cragg

Mountain RFZ · 22-12-2015, 03:48 PM

A well jetted carb is the most cost effective thing to do.

Don't worry about exhaust they don't do much at all, maybe improve throttle response and add 0.2 bhp.

Carb yes upgrading the carb is good but its just money... try jetting your carb first then see what you think.

No point having a no.1 bike if you cant ride good anyway.

A good rider will out do anyone on a crap bike.

hadouken · 22-12-2015, 05:28 PM

Iv recently put a genuine vm26 on my 140 the difference is amazing incomparison to the molktcarb that came with the bike.

**Dangle_kt** · 23-12-2015, 07:01 PM

A properly jetted and set up mikuni makes a big difference to how smooth the power comes in, and does feel a bit punchier at low to mid revs, after then I cant say I can tell much of a difference.

And yes, the Monster Pro is a cracking package - very competitive in the right hands

james47 · 23-12-2015, 08:42 PM

You dont need all that to run at the front..

I'm running stock everything (except a 5 year old, bent scorpion pipe).. I finished 3rd in stock 140's..

It will make you a better rider being a horse power or two down..

**binge** · 26-12-2015, 05:59 PM

In the open class, bike specs will probably make a bit of a difference.
But in the 140 stock class, I don't think anything other than your tyres are going to really make much difference.

Take Rich Cooper for example, or Dayne Blackburn.
Both fucking excellent riders (2 of the finest!), Granted, Dayne runs a bike which is spec'd to the hills, but still capable on something standard.
Rich runs a CRF50 for christ sake!

This one to be exact:

The front disc brake is a bit of a recent thing. The last time I rode with him, he was on drum brakes front and rear.

Springer forks (CRF50), with a vertically mounted damper, and a decent set of tyres.

He can comfortably run at the front, and them some!

Do not be fooled with the requirements of a highly strung bike. Ride it, as long as it 'feels right' to you, then you'll do okay.

cragg · 27-12-2015, 04:15 PM

Thank you for your help.
So which is regarded as the better frame size, crf50 or crf70?!

**binge** · 27-12-2015, 05:26 PM

It's down to personal choice again.

I get on best with the KLX110 set up. A breed of pit bike which is now quite rare.

I've never ridden to well on the CRF70. I find them a bit big and bouncy. Armchair like.

The CRF50 (Honda CRF size, not SDG aftermarket over-sized pit bike rubbish), is a wicked bike to ride on track. So much fun. Sketchy into, and out of the corners. Great fun!